We left our car parked outside the Mammoth Mountain Inn where we had stayed the night before and boarded the Red’s Meadow shuttle bus. Moments after being dropped off at the Agnew Meadows shuttle stop we were already getting attacked by mosquitoes despite drenching ourselves in DEET.
We set off down the road, pass the pack station, to where the High Trail of the PCT started. There were some short steep switchbacks in the beginning, but after that the trail leveled out and was pretty straight.
Out of all the days we decided to hike this mostly exposed trail, it had to be during a heatwave. To say the least, it was not cool outside as we hiked but the views from the trail were great.
After about 8 miles we came to Thousand Island Lake which was to be the location of our first night’s camp. Due to camping restrictions around the lake we had to hike about another mile further to find a camping spot, however, many people were ignoring the restriction.
We opted to go for the less popular south side and found a somewhat flat spot up on the side of a hill. The mosquitoes were still pretty bad even being up and away from the lake so we retired to the tent and spent most of the day laying in there resting.
The next day we headed south on the John Muir Trail and passed by Emerald Lake and Ruby Lake, finally coming to the large Garnet Lake.
There was a nice footbridge over the large outflow at Garnet Lake where a lot of people were hanging out and getting water. We too stopped here to check out the view and collect water for our hike.
After passing over the footbridge we did a little uphill but then peaked out and started heading downward towards Shadow Lake. For some reason I had in my head that this was what most of the day was going to be like, until we reached the east end of Shadow Lake and I met the switchbacks from hell. I think these may have been the most intense group of switchbacks I have ever gone up. Maybe it was because I had a pack on, or because I was still tired from the hike yesterday, but either way they made me miserable. Alas I knew it was just after these switchbacks and we’d be at Rosalie Lake which was our planned 2nd night camp. And we needed to get there since the weather was starting to turn. Just as we finished setting up our tent it began to rain, but just a little bit. We crawled inside to rest as the skies opened up a little more and the wind got more blustery. I think being in a tent when it’s raining outside is one of my favorite things. We rested in the tent most of the later half of the day until the weather let up and the skies cleared again. I took this opportunity to get out and walk around Rosalie Lake a bit.
I felt like this lake had a lot of good spots for setting up tents, unlike a lot of the other lakes we had passed by earlier on the trip. The mosquitoes were also not as bad here, but they were still enough to be a nuisance. I cooked some soup for dinner on our Esbit stove which I finally started getting a hang of, then crawled back into the tent to eat and call it a night.
Back on the trail in the morning after a quick breakfast of trail bars we quickly passed Glady’s Lake, but didn’t stop long due the barrage of mosquitos.
The trail this day was almost all downhill so it went by quickly. It actually went by a lot more quickly than we anticipated. We were planning on spending our next night around Johnston Lake but we got there so early in the day we decided to just keep going.
Not much further past Johnston Lake we entered into the Devils Postpile Monument.
It was still another mile or so until we came across what actually looked like an established area. Our first sign we were getting back to civilization was the footbridge over the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River.
At this point we had to figure out where we were gonna stay for the night. We had a couple options; A: We could catch a shuttle bus from the Devils Postpile back to where we left our car at the Mammoth Mountain Inn and try and find a hotel, or B: See if we could get a campground at Red’s Meadow or the Devils Postpile. We decided to go with the later option and see if we could just find a campsite in the area, that way we could wake up the next morning and check out the postpile before the tourist crowds rolled in. We made our way to the “ranger” station near the Devils Postpile shuttle stop to ask about the campgrounds. The woman working there looked at me as if I was speaking a different language when I asked about the availability of campsites. All she could offer me was, “you can go check.” Last time I checked rangers were supposed to know about these things, but oh well. We walked over to the campground to find that there were a few spots left, but alas, we had no cash with us to pay for a site!
We figured maybe at Red’s Meadow Resort we could get some cash, so we hopped on the valley Shuttle and cruised over there. While there we grabbed some sub-par food at the restaurant, some beer and snacks from the store, which also gave us cash back!
We rode back to the campground on the shuttle, nabbed a spot, paid for it, and then basked in our accomplishments of the day.
The next morning we got up as planned to go check out the Devils Postpile which was very close to our campsite. Just a short walk and we were among the first people there that day.
We took the trail to the top of the postpile as well. It was nice being able to check out the whole area with almost no one else around.
We had a little more time left before we had to be out of our campsite so we headed on over to Rainbow Falls. We took the shuttle to the trailhead and did the short hike, but we only had enough time to check it out from above and had to head back to pack up our camp.
We took the shuttle back to camp, packed up, then took the shuttle back out to Mammoth Mountain Inn where we had left our car. Below is a map of our route.
More pictures from this tip can be found here.